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Disaster Supplies Kit

PDF version of the Disaster Supplies Kit

There are six basics you should stock for your home: water, food, first aid supplies, clothing and bedding, tools and emergency supplies, and special items. Keep the items that you would most likely need during an evacuation in an easy-to carry container--suggested items are marked with an asterisk(*). Possible containers include a large, covered trash container, a camping backpack, or a duffle bag.

Water

• Store water in plastic containers such as soft drink bottles. Avoid using containers that will decompose or break, such as milk cartons or glass bottles. A normally active person needs to drink at least two quarts of water each day. Hot environments and intense physical activity can double that amount. Children, nursing mothers, and ill people will need more.
• Store one gallon of water per person per day.
• Keep at least a three-day supply of water per person (two quarts for drinking, two quarts for each person in your household for food preparation/sanitation).*

Food

• Store at least a three-day supply of non-perishable food. Select foods that require no refrigeration, preparation or cooking, and little or no water. If you must heat food, pack a can of sterno. Select food items that are compact and lightweight. Include a selection of the following foods in your Disaster Supplies Kit:
• Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits, and vegetables
• Canned juices
• Staples (salt, sugar, pepper, spices, etc.)
• High energy foods
• Vitamins
• Food for infants
• Comfort/stress foods

First Aid Kit
Assemble a first aid kit for your home and one for each car.

• Sterile adhesive bandages in assorted sizes
• Assorted sizes of safety pins
• Cleansing agent/soap
• Latex gloves (2 pairs)
• Sunscreen
• 2-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6)
• 4-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6)
• Triangular bandages (3)
• Non-prescription drugs
• 2-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls)
• 3-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls)
• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Needle
• Moistened towelettes
• Antiseptic
• Thermometer
• Tongue blades (2)
• Tube of petroleum jelly or other lubricant

Non-Prescription Drugs

• Aspirin or nonaspirin pain reliever
• Anti-diarrhea medication
• Antacid (for stomach upset)
• Syrup of Ipecac (use to induce vomiting if advised by the Poison Control Center)
• Laxative
• Activated charcoal (use if advised by the Poison Control Center)

Tools and Supplies

• Mess kits, or paper cups, plates, and plastic utensils*
• Emergency preparedness manual*
• Battery-operated radio and extra batteries*
• Flashlight and extra batteries*
• Cash or traveler's checks, change*
• Non-electric can opener, utility knife*
• Fire extinguisher: small canister ABC type
• Tube tent
• Pliers
• Tape
• Compass
• Matches in a waterproof container
• Aluminum foil
• Plastic storage containers
• Signal flare
• Paper, pencil
• Needles, thread
• Medicine dropper
• Shut-off wrench, to turn off household gas and water
• Whistle
• Plastic sheeting
• Map of the area (for locating shelters)

Sanitation

• Toilet paper, towelettes*
• Soap, liquid detergent*
• Feminine supplies*
• Personal hygiene items*
• Plastic garbage bags, ties (for personal sanitation uses)
• Plastic bucket with tight lid
• Disinfectant
• Household chlorine bleach

Clothing and Bedding
*Include at least one complete change of clothing and footwear per person.

• Sturdy shoes or work boots*
• Rain gear*
• Blankets or sleeping bags*
• Hat and gloves
• Thermal underwear
• Sunglasses

Special Items

• Remember family members with special requirements, such as infants and elderly or disabled persons

For Baby*

• Formula
• Diapers
• Bottles
• Powdered milk
• Medications

For Adults*

• Heart and high blood pressure medication
• Insulin
• Prescription drugs
• Denture needs
• Contact lenses and supplies
• Extra eye glasses

Entertainment

• Games and books

Important Family Documents

• Keep these records in a waterproof, portable container:
  • Will, insurance policies, contracts deeds, stocks and bonds
  • Passports, social security cards, immunization records
  • Bank account numbers
  • Credit card account numbers and companies
• Inventory of valuable household goods, important telephone numbers
• Family records (birth, marriage, death certificates)
• Store your kit in a convenient place known to all family members. Keep a smaller version of the supplies kit in the trunk of your car.
• Keep items in airtight plastic bags. Change your stored water supply every six months so it stays fresh. Replace your stored food every six months. Re-think your kit and family needs at least once a year. Replace batteries, update clothes, etc.
• Ask your physician or pharmacist about storing prescription medications.

The text on this page is in the public domain. We request that attribution to this information be given as follows: From "Disaster Supplies Kit." developed by the Federal Emergency Management Agency and the American Red Cross.

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Winter Storm ????

Table of Contents

Prepare a Winter Storm Plan
Assemble a Disaster Supplies Kit
Stay tuned for Storm Warnings
Know what Winter Storm Watches and Warnings mean
When a Winter Storm Watch is issued
When a Winter Storm Warning is issued
If you DO get stuck

See also...

Winter Storms... the Deceptive Killers, in-depth information about winter storm safety from the National Weather Service

Prepare a Winter Storm Plan

• Have extra blankets on hand.
• Ensure that each member of your household has a warm coat, gloves or mittens, hat, and water-resistant boots.

Assemble a Disaster Supplies Kit Containing--

• First aid kit and essential medications.
• Battery-powered NOAA Weather radio, flashlight, and extra batteries.
• Canned food and can opener.
• Bottled water (at least one gallon of water per person per day to last at least 3 days).
• Extra warm clothing, including boots, mittens, and a hat.
• Assemble a Disaster Supplies Kit for your car, too.
• Have your car winterized before winter storm season.

Stay Tuned for Storm Warnings. . .

• Listen to NOAA Weather Radio and your local radio and TV stations for updated storm information.

Know What Winter Storm WATCHES and WARNINGS Mean

• A winter storm WATCH means a winter storm is possible in your area.
• A winter storm WARNING means a winter storm is headed for your area.
• A blizzard WARNING means strong winds, blinding wind-driven snow, and dangerous wind chill are expected. Seek shelter immediately!

When a Winter Storm WATCH is Issued...

• Listen to NOAA Weather Radio, local radio, and TV stations, or cable TV such as The Weather Channel for further updates.
• Be alert to changing weather conditions.
• Avoid unnecessary travel.

When a Winter Storm WARNING is Issued...

• Stay indoors during the storm.
• If you must go outside, several layers of lightweight clothing will keep you warmer than a single heavy coat. Gloves (or mittens) and a hat will prevent loss of body heat. Cover your mouth to protect your lungs.
• Understand the hazards of wind chill, which combines the cooling effect of wind and cold temperatures on exposed skin.
• As the wind increases, heat is carried away from a person's body at an accelerated rated, driving down the body temperature.
• Walk carefully on snowy, icy, sidewalks.
• After the storm, if you shovel snow, be extremely careful. It is physically strenuous work, so take frequent breaks. Avoid overexertion.
• Avoid traveling by car in a storm, but if you must...
  • Carry a Disaster Supplies Kit in the trunk.
  • Keep your car's gas tank full for emergency use and to keep the fuel line from freezing.
  • Let someone know your destination, your route, and when you expect to arrive. If your car gets stuck along the way, help can be sent along your predetermined route.

If You Do Get Stuck...

• Stay with your car. Do not try to walk to safety.
• Tie a brightly colored cloth (preferably red) to the antenna for rescuers to see.
• Start the car and use the heater for about 10 minutes every hour. Keep the exhaust pipe clear so fumes won't back up in the car.
• Leave the overhead light on when the engine is running so that you can be seen.
• As you sit, keep moving your arms and legs to keep blood circulating and to stay warm.
• Keep one window away from the blowing wind slightly open to let in air.

Information on this page provided by : American Red Cross

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Controlling Snakes After the Storm or Flood

Snakes, like other residents in the path of storms and floods, have been displaced and left homeless. As a result, many of these animals are seeking shelter and food in areas close to people. These areas, out of the way of high water, include the inside of homes, storage sheds, barns and other buildings. Damaged structures have a higher probability of attracting snakes because of the many accessible entrances. Displaced snakes may be found under debris scattered by the flood or in debris piles created during the cleanup effort.

Missouri has many more species of nonpoisonous snakes than poisonous snakes. Both poisonous and nonpoisonous snakes are beneficial to people because they keep down rodent populations. Since rodents also are displaced by flooding, this is especially important.

Control tips

Outdoors:

Indoors:

Back to the Flood Response page

Wet hay requires careful monitoring

Wet hay molds quickly and heats, then spontaneous combustion can occur within two or three days Therefore, special care is needed if hay becomes wet.

University Extension specialists recommend wet hay be spread out to dry quickly and turned often as it is drying. Hay storage areas should be monitored often for pungent odors, hot damp areas on the stack, emission of water vapors and other signs of heating.

Knowing the temperature of the hay is important. To check the stack's temperature, drive a sharp-pointed pipe down into the hay, lower a thermometer inside the pipe, and leave it there for about 20 minutes. Make the reading quickly when the thermometer is removed.

Use these guidelines to determine the danger zone:

• Observe daily hay that has reached 150 degrees.

• Inspect hay at 160 degrees every four hours.

• Keep an adequate water supply on hand, and request the fire department to standby if hay has reached 175 degrees--when hot spots or fire pockets are possible.

• Remove hay that has reached 185 degrees, and deposit it a safe distance from buildings; flames may develop when air comes in contact with the hay.

• Hay is almost certain to ignite at 210 degrees.

A WORD OF CAUTION: Do not allow workers to enter the mow alone. Put ropes around their waists because of the danger of falling into fire pockets. Use long planks across the top of the hay for workers to stand on.

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Care of flood-damaged upholstered furniture

Upholstered furniture that has been submerged in flood waters may be impossible to salvage if it has been badly soaked. If the piece seems worth the effort, you will need to clean and oil the springs, replace stuffing and clean the frame.

Stuffing and covering

1. Remove furniture coverings using a ripping tool, hammer, tack puller, screwdriver or chisel.
2. Remove all tacks from the frame.
3. Wash coverings as described for carpets (link).
4. Throw away all cotton stuffing. You can dry, fumigate and reuse padding made of other materials.

Springs and frame

1. Wipe off springs and frame. Dry all metal parts and coat with rust-inhibiting paint. Oil springs.
2. Store wood frames where they will dry slowly.

Mildew

Mildew may develop on damp or wet furniture. Mildew is a gray-white mold that leaves stains and rots fabric unless it is removed promptly. To remove mildew or mildew spots:

1. Brush with a broom to remove loose mold from outer covering. Do this outdoors if possible, so you won't scatter mildew spores which can start new growth in the house.
2. Vacuum the surface to draw out mold. Dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag outside to avoid scattering mold spores in the house.
3. If mildew remains and fabric is washable, sponge lightly with thick soap or detergent suds. Wipe with a clean, damp cloth. Get as little water on the fabric as possible, so the padding doesn't get wet.
4. If mold remains, wipe the furniture with a damp cloth dipped in diluted alcohol (1 cup denatured alcohol to 1 cup water) or a chlorine bleach solution (1/4 teaspoon bleach to a cup of water).
5. Dry article thoroughly.
6. Use a low-pressure spray containing a fungicide to get rid of must odors and remaining mildew. Moisten all surfaces thoroughly. Respray frequently if mildew is a continuing problem. Spraying rooms with an aerosol material will not eliminate mildew problems.
7. If molds have grown into inner parts, send furniture to a dry cleaning or storage company for thorough drying and fumigation. Fumigation will kill molds present at the time but will not protect against future attacks.

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Restoring Flood-Soiled Bedding

Mattresses

A good innerspring mattress should be sent to a commercial renovating company. Renovation is too difficult to do at home. Ask about the cost of such work. It could be less expensive to buy a good reconditioned or new mattress.

If mattress must be used temporarily, scrape off surface dirt and expose it to sunlight to dry as much as possible. Cover mattress with a rubber sheet before using it.

If you decide to keep any flood-soiled mattress, it should be sterilized. This must be done at a sterilizing plant--a mattress company or a state hospital. Ask your public health department for information on mattress sterilizing plants in your area.

Have mattresses as dry as possible before taking them to a sterilizing plant. Crop drying fans or household fans may speed up the drying process.

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Pillows

If pillows have been badly soaked, it may not be possible to remove all objectionable odors.

Feather pillows

1. Brush off surface dirt.
2. To circulate water through pillows, open a few inches of the seam in opposite corners of the pillow, turn edges in, sew loosely with strong thread, or fasten with safety pins.
3. Wash in machine or by hand in warm (not hot) suds 15 to 20 minutes. Use a disinfectant in the wash cycle. If using an automatic washer, do not wash more than two pillows at a time.
4. Rinse at least three times in clear, warm water.
5. Spin off water or gently squeeze out as much water as possible. Do not put pillows through a wringer.
6. Dry in an automatic dryer at moderate heat setting, or dry in a warm room with a fan, or across two or three clotheslines. Put several bath towels in dryer with pillows to speed up drying. Allow at least 2 hours. Shake up feather occasionally to hasten drying.

• If ticking is not in good condition, or if pillow is badly soiled, wash feather and ticking separately.

1. Find a muslin bag which is two or three times larger than the ticking
2. Open one edge of ticking.
3. Sew the open edges of the ticking and the bag together.
4. Shake the feather from ticking to muslin bag.
5. Close seam of bag.
6. Wash bag of feather in lukewarm, sudsy water and disinfectant.
7. Repeat if necessary.
8. Rinse in lukewarm water, changing water several times.
9. Squeeze out as much water as possible by hand. Do not use a wringer.
10. To air-dry, hang on line by two corners. Change positions end to end and shake feather occasionally to speed up drying.
11. Finish drying pillows by laying them on a flat surface or pinning them to a clothesline to dry in the open air.
12. Wash the ticking. With a sponge, apply a starch solution to the inside of the ticking.
13. Transfer clean feather to the clean, sanitized starched ticking, using the same methods as for emptying.
14. Close seam of ticking

Polyester fiberfill pillows

1. Brush off surface dirt.
2. Wash by hand in warm water and low-sudsing detergent. Add a disinfectant to the wash water. Flush water through pillow by compressing it. (Twisting and wringing will tear filling). Change water and repeat if necessary.
3. Rinse three times in clear, warm water.
4. Spin off water in automatic machine. Tumble dry in dryer at moderate setting with several bath towels, or press out as much water as possible by hand, and hang on line outdoors to dry.

Foam rubber or urethane pillows

1. Remove cover. Brush off surface dirt.
2. Follow manufacturer's directions if they are available. Otherwise, soak in cool water; then wash in warm suds by hand. Use a bathtub or large sink. Then wash by pushing down on pillow, releasing, and pushing down again. Rinse the same way. Pillows can be machine-washed on gentle cycle with lukewarm water plus a disinfectant.
3. Rinse well in lukewarm water.
4. Gently squeeze or spin out excess water. Blot with towels.
5. Dry away from heat and sunlight. Do not dry in dryer unless on an air only setting. Pillows may dry very slowly in the air.

Back to the Flood Response page

Cleaning Flood-Damaged Homes
A Step-By-Step Guide to Restoration

Caution! BEFORE DOING ANYTHING?Does the outside inspection show the structure is safe?

• Check for structural damage to see if it is safe to enter the building.
• Watch for electrical shorts and live wires. Electrical safety is most important in floods. Make sure that electrical service is DISCONNECTED and CANNOT be turned on before entering any structure.
• Turn off any outside gas lines at the tank or meter, and let the building air out for several minutes to remove gas fumes.

Steps Towards Clean up

• See that everyone is out of danger of new flood crests, falling buildings, fire or other hazards .
• Contact your insurance agent immediately. Give your name, address and a phone number where you can be reached.
• Take pictures of the damage before beginning clean up.
• Keep accurate records. List all clean-up and repair bills, flood-related living expenses and actual losses, such as furniture, appliances, clothing, etc
• Adjuster will assess damage to house. Owner should sign proof-of-loss statement. Additional damages can be added when found.
• If you have a question or problem with your insurance carrier, contact the Missouri Department of Insurance: 1-800-726-7390.

Information & Referrals

Contact local, state and federal offices for help and answers to specific clean-up questions.

Your University Outreach and Extension center can help with food and water safety, cleanup and restoration questions or referrals. Find an office.

ParentLink offers parents and others with resources to help children cope: 1-800-552-8522

Electrical Systems

• Be sure utilities are disconnected before entering the building for the first time.
• Disconnect main switch and all circuits. If the main switch is located in the basement, be sure all flood water is pumped out BEFORE attempting any work on electrical systems.
• Remove covers and clean all outlets and fuse or multi-breaker boxes.
• Dry contacts and spray with cleaner/lubricant.
• Have an electrician check for ground faults and other unsafe conditions and equipment before reconnecting systems. Equipment and wiring that appears to be safe soon after flooding may fail prematurely and cause a fire or shock hazard. Replacement is often the best option. Circuit breakers that have been submerged should be replaced.

Food & Water Sanitation

Until your local water utility or county health department declares your water source safe, purify all water, not only for drinking and cooking, but also for washing any part of the body.

To sterilize water, use one of these methods:

1. Boil vigorously for 3 minutes.
2. Add unscented chlorine laundry bleach (1/2 teaspoon per 2 ? gallons of water).
3. Add tincture of iodine (12 drops per gallon of water).

Food: Discard all foods, including garden produce, that have come in contact with flood waters. Only foods sealed in airtight metal cans that are not bulging or damaged and have been properly sanitized can be saved. Contact your local University Outreach and Extension center for proper disposal and decontamination guidelines.

Floor Coverings

Carpets and rugs:

• Carpets and rugs may be cleaned best by professionals.
• To clean them yourself, pull up water-logged carpets, rugs and pads and dry outside on a clean, flat surface, such as a concrete driveway. If the rug is placed face down, stains will wick to the back instead of to the face yarns.
• Hose off and, if badly soiled, add detergent. Work detergent into carpet with broom and rinse well. Remove as much water as possible quickly using steam, fans or water-extraction equipment. Take care to avoid electrical shock.
• To discourage mildew and odors, rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons of chlorine bleach per gallon of water. If the carpet is wool, do NOT add bleach.
• Dry carpet and floor thoroughly before carpet is replaced If carpet is put down wet, it may mildew. Carpet and backing may shrink.
• Discard all padding.

Subfloors:

• Layers of submerged plywood subfloors may separate.
• Sections that separate must be replaced to keep floor covering from buckling.
• When floor coverings are removed, allow subflooring to dry thoroughly (it may take several months). Check for warping before installing new flooring.

Wood floors:

• Carefully remove a board every few feet to reduce buckling caused by swelling. Consult a carpenter about removal techniques for tongue-and-groove boards.
• Clean and dry floor thoroughly (may take several weeks or months) before replacing boards and attempting repairs.

Tile and sheet-vinyl floors:

• If submerged subfloor is wood, floor covering probably should be removed so subflooring can be replaced. If floor has not been soaked, loose tiles may be recemented after floor is thoroughly dry.
• If subflooring is concrete, removing floor covering will hasten drying of slab. Removal may not be necessary if it would ruin an otherwise unharmed material.
• If water has seeped under loose sections of sheet flooring, remove entire sheet.
• Contact a reputable dealer to find out what solvent and technique will loosen the adhesive with the least damage to the floor. Ease of removal depends on the type of material and adhesive.

Furniture

• Take furniture outdoors to clean. Hose or brush off mud. All parts (drawers, doors, etc.) should be removed. Remove or cut hole in back to push out stuck drawers and doors.
• Dry slowly out of direct sunlight. (hot sunlight will warp furniture.) It may take several weeks to several months to dry.

Cleaning and Disinfecting

• Wash exposed skin parts (hands, feet, etc.) frequently in purified water. Wear rubber gloves for extra protection against contamination.
• As flood waters recede, use a disinfectant to clean walls and woodwork from top to bottom. A 3-gallon garden sprayer works well. One cup of household chlorine bleach per gallon of water can be used as a disinfectant. Scrub with a brush to help remove mud and silt.
• Rinse with clean water. Dry thoroughly. If utilities are on, use heater, fan or air conditioner to speed drying.

Household Appliances

• Submerged appliances must be cleaned and dried before starting.
• With electricity or fuel turned off, unplug and open as much as possible to rinse or wipe clean and let dry.
• Tilt to drain and aid quick drying. Three days to a week is necessary for drying.
• Appliance repair person should check before reconnecting. Most motorized appliances can be saved.

Flood-Damaged Walls

• Remove water from structure as rapidly as possible.
• Remove interior surface of insulated walls to point above water height.
• Remove and discard wet insulation.
• Treat interior wall studs and plates with disinfectant to prevent growth of decay-causing organisms.
• Provide ventilation by opening windows and doors and using fans.
• Leave walls open for up to four weeks or until they have thoroughly dried.
• Select replacement materials that will withstand future floods.
• Delay permanent repairs until buildings are thoroughly dry (may be several weeks).
• Control mildew in the weeks and months that follow flood.

Mildew Prevention

• If an air conditioner is available, use it to remove moisture.
• In homes that are not air-conditioned, open as many windows as possible. Use fans to circulate air.
• Turn on electric lights in closets, and leave doors open to dry.
• Let lights stay on as long as dampness or high humidity is present to help dry and prevent mildew growth.

Removing Mildew From Household Articles

• Brush off mold and mildew growth outdoors to prevent scattering of spores in the house.
• Run a vacuum cleaner attachment over the area to draw out more of the mold. Discard vacuum bag immediately.
• Sponge any remaining mildew with thick suds. Wipe with a clean, barely damp cloth.
• Wipe mildew-stained area with cloth dampened with diluted alcohol: 1 cup rubbing (denatured) alcohol to 1 cup of water and dry thoroughly.
• Spray with fungicide or other commercial disinfectant.
• Dry article thoroughly.

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Garden Produce

Garden produce exposed to flood waters is not safe to eat. Do not attempt to disinfect, save or preserve crops--not even root crops.

If plants survive, the new produce that forms on them after the flood waters have receded are safe to consume. It will take about a month for gardens to become clean.

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